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Please try again. The social inequality he witnessed led him to journalism, but after his return to the U.S. and fatherhood, the waves still beckoned, even if that meant enduring a January swell off Long Island. The book nevertheless provides a fascinating look inside the mind of a man terminally in love with a magnificent obsession. But there's enough vicarious enjoyment, excitement and insight, beautifully expressed and sensitively communicated, to bridge the gaps in direct experience and bring this thoughtful autobiography to life for any reader with imagination. Did anyone back home even know what country we were in? His descriptions of some of the world’s most powerful and unforgiving waves are hauntingly beautiful…Finnegan displays an honesty that is evident throughout the book, parts of which have a searing, unvarnished intensity that reminded me of ‘Stop Time,’ the classic coming-of-age memoir by Frank Conroy.” —Washington Post    “The kind of book that makes you squirm in your seat on the subway, gaze out the window at work, and Google Map the quickest route to the beach. Reviewed in the United Kingdom on May 3, 2013. Like Jon Krakauer’s ‘Into the Wild,’ it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into the far reaches of the world.” —The New York Times Magazine   “Which is precisely what makes the propulsive precision of Finnegan’s writing so surprising and revelatory… Finnegan’s treatment of surfing never feels like performance. ", A wry portrayal of the ex-pat life, set in a lost latitude of the Pacific, Reviewed in the United States on July 15, 2016. The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness Surf Café Living Designed ... Esteemed biographer and legendary literary editor Claire Tomalin's stunning memoir of a life in literature“[An] ... Esteemed biographer and legendary literary editor Claire Tomalin's stunning memoir of a life in literature“[An] Barbarian Days: A Surfing... For worldly Americans, the whole globe was covered by the foreign bureaus of the better newspapers. A staff writer at The New Yorker, he leads a counterlife as an obsessive surfer, traveling around the world, throwing his vulnerable, merely human body into line after line of waves in search of transient moments of grace…It’s an occupation that has never before been described with this tenderness and deftness.”—TIME Magazine, Top 10 Nonfiction Books of 2015 “A hefty masterpiece.” —Geoff Dyer, The Guardian“Terrific…Elegantly written and structured, it’s a riveting adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, and a restless, searching meditation on love, friendship and family…A writer of rare subtlety and observational gifts, Finnegan explores every aspect of the sport — its mechanics and intoxicating thrills, its culture and arcane tribal codes — in a way that should resonate with surfers and non-surfers alike.

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