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Beak, a micro-brewery in Lewes, East Sussex, is running a series of chef take-overs of its taproom space each Saturday. We end up with a txakoli, a crisp white from the Basque country – a name spelt with an “x” like that is always a giveaway – which makes me feel travelled and adventurous. Time for a more enjoyable alternative, A long-overdue lunch at Paul Huddlestone’s place in Yorkshire felt like coming home, says Jay Rayner. Education: Haberdashers' Aske's Boys' School: Alma mater: University of Leeds: Occupation: Broadcaster, writer, journalist, food critic: Years active: 1988–present: Employer: BBC, Channel 4 and The Observer: Spouse(s) Pat Gordon-Smith: Children: 2: Parent(s) Desmond Rayner (deceased) Claire Rayner … Open Tuesday to Sunday (Monday closed) Lunch 12-2.45 (last booking) Dinner 6pm- 8.15 (last booking) And yet this one has put a bloody biscuit on the top, which can surely only weigh it down. In 2006 he won again, as Critic of the Year. The rest of us should consider getting on the bus. Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @jayrayner1. Couldn’t they have mixed it up a bit so they got to try a few different things? It’s Crouch End. I check my spice shelf, The Windmill, London: ‘You’ll be rewarded with terrific pie’ – restaurant review, Daffodil Mulligan, London: ‘A certain optimism’ – restaurant review, Wen’s, Leeds: ‘Dumplings in gossamer skins’ – restaurant review, Lyon’s Seafood and Wine Bar, London: ‘An intriguing thing’ – restaurant review, I put negative reviews on pause after lockdown. Occasionally, dishes are brought to the table by Morjaria himself, a dashing, intense figure in a leather apron, with a close crop of perfectly poised silver-fox grey hair. Their first live album, A night of Food and Agony, is released in November of 2017. Right now, everything is closure and “God help us.” Depressingly, it’s all justifiable closure and “God help us.” There’s very little in the way of a bright side upon which we may look. Good question. During lockdown Lyon’s restyled itself as an online store, selling great produce. He is the author of four novels and five works of non-fiction. The locals of Crouch End have an intriguing thing on their doorstep. The nearest thing to straightforward are three tiger prawns, grilled in chilli and garlic-spiked butter. © 2020 Guardian News & Media Limited or its affiliated companies. Here's how to revive it, Kolamba, London: ‘A lovely dinner in a calming space’ – restaurant review, Street Urchin, Manchester: ‘A place where good things happen’ – restaurant review, This isn’t a tough new food policy for post-Brexit UK. Both have intense sauces. His varied television work includes appearances as a judge in multiple series of Masterchef, and as part of the panel on BBC2’s Eating With The Enemy. Darrell Rolle-Jackson, the brilliant pastry chef, comes out to explain. It’s a short lurch from there to recalling the blistering scent of an NCP car park stairwell. There’s the offer of a whole grilled seabass for two at £35, which apparently comes with a bit of foliage. He made his name at the Pot Kiln in Berkshire before opening the Woodsman (also inside an Indigo Hotel) in Stratford-upon-Avon. His second, Day of Atonement, published in 1998, was nominated for the Jewish Quarterly’s international prize for Jewish fiction. The site occupied by Lyon’s Seafood and Wine Bar has been many things over the years. Salmon collars are tandoori paste-rubbed, then roasted until the skin is crisp. [4] in 2020, during the COVID-19 pandemic, during which many restaurants were forced to close, Rayner announced he would no longer publish negative reviews: "That doesn’t mean giving good reviews to bad places, or not including criticisms. Think coffee-roasted carrots with dukkah and salt-baked celeriac with onion juices. It became the basis for his one man show of the same name, which toured Britain for 18 months until mid-2015, and resulted in Jay being called to give evidence to the House of Commons Select Committee on Food, the Environment and Rural Affairs. It’s that rare thing: immense precision in the interests of appetite. The five-course autumnal menu, cooked by chef Andrew Clarke, will be served family style to groups of up to six. He keeps an archive of all his journalism at jayrayner.co.uk By Jay Rayner, If you don’t know much about Burmese cuisine, then Lahpet’s menu is a real eye-opener, writes Jay Rayner, The pandemic has brought a silver lining to one Borough Market trader – he’s opened a restaurant. All rights reserved. Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @jayrayner1 This article was amended on 19 October 2020 to reflect the fact that Million Pound Menu was shown on … Not so you have to shout. Both of the smaller plates I try are strikingly precise. But it’s that beautifully risen damson soufflé that fair takes my breath away. It’s far too instantly gratifying for that. Blocks of braised pork belly have been glazed with a sauce leaning heavily on gochujang, the strident fermented chilli paste that makes everything it meets bounce and sing. Even that last line is thrilling. There are slices of crisp-crusted sourdough from Dusty Knuckle bakery, round the corner, with which to do that butter justice. He was born in London in 1966 and has written extensively across the British and international media as both feature writer and columnist on everything from crime and politics, to the arts and fashion. Don’t bother trying this at home. I love a bit of brutalism, but too much of it makes me think NCP car park. His broadcasting work as a presenter for the BBC has brought him two Sony radio award nominations and a Sony gold, as anchor of Papertalk, a programme about the British newspaper business. I don’t much hold with giving food moral labels like clean or dirty. By Jay Rayner, The brooding, agitated psychodrama in three courses is no more. ‘Panelled walls are painted a deep-sea green and hung with hunting prints’: the Elder restaurant is located in the Indigo Hotel, Bath. [11] He plays piano with his jazz ensemble the Jay Rayner Quartet. There’s a layer of white crab meat and a layer of the brown meat for punch and, on top of that, a brassic, hot and sour chimichurri, like a neatly mown lawn. [12], Restaurant Critic Of The Year, Glenfiddich Food and Drink Awards, https://www.findmypast.co.uk/search/results?datasetname=england+%26+wales+births+1837-2006&firstname=j&lastname=rayner&eventyear=1966&eventyear_offset=0&mothersmaidenname=chetwynd, "I put negative reviews on pause after lockdown. [4] He is the younger son of Desmond Rayner and journalist Claire Rayner. His latest full length book, A Greedy Man in a Hungry World, about the challenges of food security in the 21st Century, was published in spring 2013.

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